
The Tank:
A tank between 10 and 30 gallons is the best size for beginners. Smaller tanks can be managed, but require more attention to detail. Larger tanks often take up more space than can be spared and are more expensive. Certainly, if you have a tank that is outside this range, don't hesitate to use it, but be aware that these instructions will have to be modified.
If possible, use a tank that is longer than it is tall. Tall, narrow tanks and those of unusual shapes are difficult to light adequately, and are also hard to work in. Some of the best tanks are:
Standard 10 gallon, standard 15 gallon, 20 gallon "long", 20 gallon "high", 29 gallon "high", 30 gallon "long".
All of these tanks can be outfitted with commonly available aquarium equipment.
Other equipment and supplies:
- Enough good quality fluorescent lighting to reach at least 2 watts per gallon. An exception to this rule is the 10 gallon tank. This tank is small enough and shallow enough that you can usually get adequate growth of shade tolerant plants using a single 15 watt bulb as long as the bulb is less than 1 year old, and of good quality. Except for the 29 gallon "high" tank, all of the other tanks mentioned can be adequately lit with two bulbs of the largest size that will fit on the tank. i.e., two 24" 20 watt bulbs over the 20 gallon tanks, and two 36" 30 watt bulbs over the 30 gallon tank. For the 29 gallon size, you will need three 24" 20W bulbs for adequate light. Aquarium strip light fixtures come as either double or single bulb fixtures. You can use any combination of single or double bulb fixtures that will meet your needs.
Some good brands of bulbs are:
More expensive: VitaLite Pennplax Ultra-Trilux Triton
Less Expensive: GE Chroma 50 Phillips Ultralume 5000 Phillips Daylight
- Glass canopy
- Heater: 150W heaters are probably adequate for the 10-20 gallon tanks, 200W heaters will be adequate for the larger tanks. Buy a good quality submersible heater. Don't skimp here... a tank is left unattended too often to risk your plants and animals to a faulty thermostat!
- Thermometer: Any aquarium thermometer will do, but I prefer the stick-on-the-glass liquid crystal type for several reasons. They are unobtrusive, but easy to read, they are inexpensive, and most are marked with both Fahrenheit and Celsius scales which makes them another useful learning tool.
- Filter: Do not use an under gravel filter or other air driven filter in a planted tank. It will drive off needed CO2. Use either an internal or external power filter. There are many good ones on the market. My preference is for those that have rinsable, reusable filtration media rather than those with disposable "cartridges". They are less expensive to maintain, and more environmentally friendly. Any good pet shop can tell you which size filter to get for your particular tank, but it is better to slightly oversize the filter rather than skimping. A couple of reliable brands of outside power filters are Marineland and Hagen. Duetto internal power filters are excellent in a number of applications.
- CO2 Generator: See specific directions for making a yeast reactor.
- Electrical equipment: Use a heavy duty power strip to provide power for your aquarium equipment. If you cannot locate the tank near an outlet, use a heavy duty extension cord. You will also need a light timer (like the ones used when people go on vacations) to turn the tank lights on and off each day.
- Support: Remember that an aquarium is heavy! Filled, it will weigh close to 10 pounds per gallon. 10 gallon tanks can be placed on a sturdy table. Larger tanks really need a properly designed aquarium stand.
- Gravel: Use fine non-coated natural color aquarium gravel. It should be between 1-3 mm. in size, and not contain calcium carbonate bearing rock. You can test this by placing a drop or two of muriatic acid (available at the hardware store) on a sample of gravel. If it foams, don't use it.
You will need about a 25 pound bag for a 10 gallon to 20 "high" tank, you'll probably need a 50 pound bag for the larger tanks.
- Laterite: This is an iron rich tropical clay that will serve as the nutrient base for your plants. Your local pet store will either carry it, or can order for you.
- Another very good alternative for the substrate of a planted tank is Seachem Flourite. This product is attractive, easy to use and grows plants very well. You do not need to add laterite or other materials to a Flourite substrate; it can be used as-is.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Materials Use in Planted Tanks
Posted by Unknown 0 comments
Labels: aquarium plants, Plans, planted tanks, water plans
Introduction to Aquarium Plants

Foreground plants are species that are quite short and small. They mostly form carpet-like matting at the bottom. They do this by producing numerous runner plants. These plants are often used in shallow aquariums because they need plenty of strong light. Glossostigma sp. is one of the most popular carpet plants around. It is not very easy to grow but looks absolutely stunning. Water Wisteria can be used a carpet plant too, if you put some stones on the stems till they catch root. The middle ground plants are taller than the foreground plants. Their main use is in hiding the stems of the background plants that are much taller. The background plants grow quite fast and can be used effectively to hide all the accessories in your aquarium. They usually need lesser sunlight too.
Bunch plants – plants that look good in a group – are usually middle ground or background plants. Some plants, called the specimen plants, are large decorative species that are usually highlighted at the center. Floating plants are an attractive option, but care must be taken to place floating plants away from the heat of the light bulb. Floating plants also propagate very quickly and may block out all the light in your aquarium.
Java Moss and Java Fern are some of the most common aquatic plants and they are very suitable for beginners. Initially, Java Fern should be attached to a piece of driftwood or rock. After the roots are formed it will stick to its surface. Java Moss and Java Fern are very hardy plants that can thrive in a wide range of soft and hard waters and even do well in a brackish aquarium. These plants will also tolerate a lot of different pH-values. New plants form on the older leaves of existing plants. The new plants will break themselves off from the original plant, but can also be cut away. These shoots can then be replanted. They grow quickly and give a very lush appearance to your aquarium.
The Amazon Sword is another very popular aquatic plant. Just like Java Moss and Java Fern, the Amazon Sword is a very hardy plant that is popular both among beginners and expert aquarists. Amazon Sword grows pretty fast and therefore prevents algae formation.
Wisteria is yet another example of a beautiful and undemanding plant that is suitable for your first aquarium. The plant grows quickly and also helps to inhibit algae growth. But Wisteria also sucks a lot of nutrients from the water. Pale leaves indicate that there is a shortage of nutrients in the aquarium, and that fertilizers need to be added to the substrate. The Anubias Nana plant is also popular among beginners, since this plant thrives in virtually all conditions. Best results are obtained by tying the plant to a tree root or stone. This plant often flowers in water and is usually left alone by herbivorous fish. If your aquarium is provided with strong light, you can keep Lillaeopsis. Lillaeopsis looks more or less like grass. It grows fast, but does need bright lighting and can therefore be an unsuitable choice for your very first aquarium before you have learned how to control the algae. If you want to keep an amphibious plant, you can try the Cryptocoryne Beckettii. It is a popular plant among aquarists and it grows really well when it is submerged.
Beginners must take some factors into mind when they select plants. Since you are new to the whole concept, it is best to stick with plants that are not very exotic or pricey. As a rule of thumb, very colorful plants are unsuitable for beginners and green plants are a better choice. This is mainly because colorful plants typically require more direct light. Providing this light may play havoc with the temperature and algae levels in your aquarium. If you are not equipped with enough know-how and experience in dealing with these situations, you will find that your aquarium will turn green with algae in no time. Availability is another matter to consider. Some plants propagate themselves and give off shoots that will develop into new plants. Such plants are usually available in most pet shops since they are easy to grow. You will also be able to plant new shoots without spending more money. Plants that are not easily eaten by fish are also good for the beginner.
Posted by Unknown 0 comments
Labels: aquarium plants, introduction to aquarium plants, water plants
Monday, August 24, 2009
Aquarium Plants

Keeping plants in the aquarium can require just as much patience and care as the fish in your aquarium. Keeping a planted aquarium will pose many new challenges for you to keep track of and manage. Many people chose fake plants for their aquarium, but they do not get the full experience out of these. In this article I will going through the various things you need to consider when picking out the proper plants for the aquarium.
The first thing you want to do, is find out what type of plants best simulate your fish’s natural habitat. Of course you could always mix it up as long as it will pose no harm to your plant or your fish. Many fish require plenty of plant cover in their natural habitat so it is good to provide it in the aquarium. You should also make sure to not add real plants to aquariums where the fish you are keeping tend to eat that plant type. You should also make sure to house any plants in an aquarium of at least 10 gallons in size. It is better to have an aquarium of 30 gallons, but for starting out 10 gallon should work just fine.
As far as lighting conditions for your planted aquarium, you should provide an adequate amount of lighting for the plants. You should make sure that you do not use lights that can cause additional heat to be transferred to your aquarium. Lighting arrangements can work out if there is plenty of plant cover for this fish to hide under, but you should also definitely take into account the fish’s own lighting needs. It is best to include plants and fish with similar lighting requirements to make adjusting the levels that much easier.
When you are putting plants in your planted aquarium, you should provide a suitable substrate for the plants to get their roots in. A substrate of at least 1-3mm in size is normally recommended, but you should check your plans specific needs to find out exactly what would be the best for it. Most planted aquariums are freshwater, so just be sure to properly condition and de-chlorinate the water so your plants aren’t damaged. Different species of plants have different water conditions so just make sure you know the exact water parameters to properly care for the plant.
I have tried to show you a couple of things to take into consideration when you are thinking out the details for your planted aquarium. I always recommend you take it a bit slow when starting out your planted aquarium. Haste definitely makes waste, and it is great to have a bit of patience. You can purchase your aquarium plants from many retailers all over the web, you can always ask a helpful sales representative if you have any problems or questions when selecting the plants. Thank you for taking the time to read this article, and I hope I was able to provide you with a bit of useful information. An informed decision on a planted aquarium is always the best kind.
Posted by Unknown 0 comments
Labels: aquarium plants, plants underwater, sea plants
